The eruption of the volcano ten years ago helped revive a diving paradise in the island and, as jill waddell finds out, the people are turning a disaster on its head.

MONTSERRAT IS CARIBBEAN BUT HALF IRISH. IT IS HOME TO a fruit bat orchestra and a species, the galliwasp, that is a snake and lizard in one! It also has an active volcano, Mt Soufreire that has left the capital Plymouth a modern day Pompeii. It seems this tiny 40-square mile-island has got guts!

Well, actually Montserrat has ghauts (just pronounced “guts”!). Ghauts are deep ravines that channel the rainwater from higher ground to the sea. Montserratiens declare that once you drink from these cool waters you will be mysteriously compelled to return to the island (once ironically named Runaway Ghaut!). This must be true to form as in 1995 the entire population of 12,000 had to be evacuated owing to the eruption of Mt Soufriere and ten years later after massive devastation to the capital, the population has slowly begun to return. But Montserrat waters after the catastrophe of the volcano have managed to call many to this brave island. The landscape may have been ravished by hot lava but its seascape thrived, reviving a diving paradise for underwater enthusiasts.

But how is that possible? As one can imagine, the reefs have been severely affected by the volcano and the devastation in the south of the island also caused over fishing in the north. The volcanic ash also starved the sea life with its unholy layer on the surface – although time and tides have dispersed the ash. But the sea life grows back. The volcano accomplished two very important features in creating this diving haven: the island was virtually uninhabitable and no one explored the reefs—the reefs were left undisturbed and flourished as a result. The second and more fascinating feature was that the pyroclastic flows that flowed into the sea created new underwater surface areas to thrive on for the coral, sponges, and all the other creatures.

In the south, Old Road Bluff is in the designated safe zone. This area was affected by the volcanic activity but the fish are incredibly plentiful. Boulders line this 30-foot dive site and it is possible to find a sleeping nurse shark nestled between!

Lime Kiln Bay has shallow ledges that stretch from the shore to about 45-foot deep water.

Woodlands Bay , described as one of the more beautiful bays. Dive experts explain that there are three systems of deeper reefs in the Runaway Ghaut to Woodlands Bay region. Two are of the shelf slope reef kind, off Lime Kiln Bay. Further out west is the Inner Horn. Here you will find wire corals in the 90 to 100 feet size.

Off Bunkum Bay is a great area for snorkellers.

Potato Hill Reef , known for its colour intensity.

Rendezvous Bluff is the bat cave dive (bat orchestra). An underwater opening of a cave is the way in – when you surface in the cave you will hear the sound of thousands of fruit bats.

In Yellow Hole , there is a wreck of a 19th century steel schooner. Pretty piece of history!

But what is out there for the diver’s viewing pleasure? Pipefish, the rare Flying Gurnards, Eagle Rays, Hawksbill, Green turtles, scorpion fish and maybe even a glimpse of the rare wolf eel.

And the good news: many entities, local and foreign, have devoted time and all important funding to getting Montserrat on track. There is immense hope for this little island and the tourism board seems to be determined to go down the ecotourist road by offering not luxury accommodations and the five-star glitz but the natural, rustic and personal experience that the Caribbean once gave. Recent travellers to the island marvel at the level of intimacy that they find themselves sharing with the locals—who are have been largely educated about their island and natural resources. The tourist experience then becomes one with a community feeling— something different and special in comparison to what goes on in the other islands.

Getting there

Montserrat is still in its rebuilding stages but managed to build an airport that will accommodate small plane charters coming in from Antigua and other neighbouring islands. These charters can also be done as day trips. Go to visitmontserrat.com for tourist board approved charters and various travel booking agents. M

Did you know?

Montserrat is only 16 km long and 10 km wide and mainly made up of volcanic rocks?

Montserrat has a strong Irish heritage? The Irish arrived centuries ago and dominated the settlers population – to the point where Montserrat is known as the Emerald Isle of the Caribbean. Possible proof: The Bam Chick Lay folk dance has telltale signs of an Irish jig. Plus the fact that St Patrick’s Day is a public holiday!

One of the most exported Caribbean songs comes from Montserrat? Calypso singer Alphonsus “Arrow” Cassell, known for his 1983 hit “Hot! Hot! Hot!”

Did you know that Montserrat was once frequented by some of the world’s most famous musicians? Air Studios used to be on the island and music artists such as the Rolling Stones, Sting and Elton John would arrive on the island to record their hits!

Did you know that the Montserrat may be the last known home to the galliwasp? This half snake and half lizard has the common name of galliwasp. Many believed species to be extinct after the volcanic eruption destroyed part of Montserrat’s forest. However, this unique creature (about one foot long) has resurfaced. This snake-like lizard is not easy to find but has been spotted in a specific area of Centre Hills.

For the Volcano Visitor

The streets of Plymouth are fascinating: only a church steeple and the roofs of homes peek above the solidified ash in some areas, and you will notice that life has been left eerily untouched in some places, with household items and abandoned personal treasures dotting the window sills.

A present-day Pompeii in the Caribbean should not be missed. For around $55 you can get a tour—just call police headquarters in the commercial centre, Brades, (664) 491-2555. The Montserrat Tourist Board can also accommodate this kind of tour.

But how do you turn a natural disaster on its head? Welcome visitors to see it! The Montserrat Volcano Observatory is the best source for information. Volcanologists based at the Observatory will give tours at 3:30 p.m. Tuesday and Thursday for $4.

Jack Boy Hill is also for volcano viewing. This facility surveys the old airport and abandoned eastern villages, now destroyed. Jack Boy Hill includes a viewing platform, trails and visitor picnic areas.

Latest Activity: A major lava dome collapse took place at the Soufriere Hills Volcano on the morning of May 20, 2006

Food for thought: Did you know there are approximately 25 live volcanoes in the Eastern Caribbean?

The diver’s dens

There are many guest houses and villas available on Montserrat and the rates are still relatively reasonable. Villa rentals are borderline cheap in comparison to the other islands. But be prepared for the simple style of life—ostentatious is not a word that you will be able to use when looking for accommodation on the island.