Home Current Issue Past Issues Real Estate Subscribe Interesting Links Advertising Info About TBP Contact Us
Restaurants & Recipes
Featured Articles
What's hot & happening
Subscribe to MACO
 

Grand old lady of Jamaica

Catherine MacGillivray experiences “the old Jamaica’’ at a north-coast inn right on the beach

Arriving at Jamaica Inn amidst a tropical afternoon downpour, I was thrilled to find tea, sandwiches and home-made cake being served.Every day between 4 p.m. and 5 p.m., the hotel keeps up this quintessentially English colonial tradition to the delight of guests, who adore the old-fashioned hospitality.

A huge umbrella was quickly produced to escort me to my divine Blue Cottage right on the hotel’s private 700-foot beach, and I sank into the comfort of one of the most gracious establishments in Jamaica, if not the Caribbean. When I’d previously mentioned my impending visit to a well-to-do Kingstonian lady, she informed me that the hotel was one of the last remaining places where one could experience “the old Jamaica”. So much so, that she and her family had rented out their own north-coast holiday villa and had booked into the inn for Easter weekend.

I was not to be disappointed by her description. Jamaica Inn is the grand old dame of island hospitality, exuding elegance and sophistication. Built in 1950 by Charles Marsh, a newspaper publisher from America, it was purchased by Charlie Marrow and Matthew Archibald in 1958. Today, it is owned by Charlie’s two sons Peter and Eric, who divide their time between Jamaica and the States. In the early days, the hotel was frequented by members of the jet set crowd such as playwright Noel Coward, whose house Firefly is in the hills nearby, and James Bond author Ian Fleming, who made his home at Golden Eye, just along the coast. Actress Marilyn Monroe honeymooned at Jamaica Inn with her second husband, playwright Arthur Miller (there is a picture of the happy couple on the library wall), while the exclusive White Suite was favoured by former British Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill.

All the rooms are luxurious. Even the most “basic”, the superior balcony suites, have large living room verandas and fabulous views of the sea. while at the other end of the spectrum, the self-contained cottages are a blend of Jamaican and Indonesian styles and ideal for families.

In the Blue Cottage, I had a huge bed and chaise lounge on which to languish and read one of the novels from the library or an up-to-date magazine thoughtfully placed on my coffee table. My veranda—which could be shuttered for privacy—also had a sofa, armchair and a table for breakfast, lunch or dinner, should I prefer not to venture up to the dining room. Although evenings at Jamaica Inn are relaxed, the dress code is formal, with gentlemen required to wear long trousers and collared shirts in the bar and dining area, while ladies get the chance to put on a fancy frock. It all feels very grown up. Mary Phillips is the general manager and her offbeat approach to the job includes inviting guests to her adjoining home once a week, where she gives a personal tour of her orchid-filled sanctuary. Newcomers soon feel like old friends and Mary has the knack of making everyone feel That they’re very welcome guests. To be honest, Jamaica Inn is the kind of place where you want to do absolutely nothing apart from relax, read and swim. All I wanted to do was chill out with the current New York Times best seller and indulge in a massage.

The KiYara Ocean Spa is tiny but simply sumptuous. Treatments are concocted from plants sourced from local organic farmers where possible, and gathered by environmentallysustainable methods otherwise.

I indulged in an exfoliation treatment using gritty chocolate flakes, which left my skin feeling as smooth as a baby’s, followed by a heavenly hot-stone therapy. Lying in a thatched cabana listening to the soothing sounds of the sea, I slipped away into the paradise around me.Breakfast can be served on your veranda, lunch brought to you on the beach and while enjoying afternoon tea, you can relax in the library with a jigsaw or a copy of Country Life. Thank goodness there is still “a little bit of old Jamaica” left·

How to get there Jamaica Inn is located in Ocho Rios on the north coast of the island, around two hours from Montego Bay or Kingston airports. Bring books to read and smart clothes for dinner. If you do want to venture out of the hotel, don’t miss the nearby Dunn’s River Falls but check first at reception to make sure there are no cruise ships in or the attraction could be very crowded. Tel: (876) 974 2514 or visit www.jamaicainn.com

© 2006 Toute Bagai Publishing Limited.      All rights reserved.      Website developed by WebNET