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A couple of traavellers bring their paassion for the far East to a St Lucian restaurant, where
the Architecture is as celebrated as the menu. Dee Lundy-Charles tells more.

Photography by Karen Sylvester

Ku garden is possibly St Lucia’s best kept secret dining spot. Tucked alongside the elegant path which leads to Thai restaurant Ku De Ta, the small, perfectly-designed deck is almost completely enclosed in a lush green bower. Basketry pendants illuminate the space impeccably, while a carved Thai warrior keeps guard over drop-dead stylish resin wicker seating and slick metal mesh tables. Ku Garden is a distillation of Ku De Ta’s unique style—an extraordinary fusion of modern Asian sensibility with traditional antiques and artwork from Thailand.

Beyond the dramatic wooden entrance is nestled the beloved fruit of Claudette and Brendan McShane’s passion for all things Thai. The couple have travelled together to Asia for many years and shared a deep appreciation of the beauty and serenity they experienced on their many buying trips to the Far East. As owner of Sea Island Cotton Shop, St Lucia’s best known chain of boutiques and gift shops, Brendan had for years scoured markets in as far flung locations as India, Thailand and Indonesia, building a reputation for quality and style over two and a half decades. Once married, the McShanes made those journeys together, exploring some of Asia’s most creative handicraft and furniture centres, and returning the spoils to St Lucia where they were very well received at Claudette’s chic furniture emporium, Sea Island Home & Garden.

But it was Thailand that captured their hearts, from the smoggy, hectic chaos of the capital Bangkok to the bucolic serenity of Chiang Mai. The McShanes were captivated by the combination of innovation, ingenuity and aesthetic which they saw reflected in every aspect of Thai design, from the sleek, contemporary lines of modern teak and bamboo furniture at trade shows to the ornate, meticulous carvings of craftsmen in the northern hills. When the opportunity arose in 2005 for Claudette and Brendan to embark on their third restaurant, there was no question in their minds that it was time to bring a piece of Thailand to Rodney Bay Village, the restaurant and nightlife centre of St Lucia. In the end, influences for the concept were drawn from many of their best loved places in the Far East—the elegant Thai restaurant at their favourite Bangkok hotel; a stunning eatery on Kuta Beach in Bali; ornate, traditional houses off the tourist path in Baan Tawai, northern Thailand, and right down to their favourite Vietnamese street food of minced pork on sugar cane sticks which appears on the menu. The strands of inspiration from all their various travels were drawn together for Claudette and Brendan, and in spring 2006 Ku De Ta opened its doors.

Ku De Ta perfectly captures the best elements of Thai style. Approaching along the impressive yet intimate entrance path, the guest is guided towards the restaurant by architectural pagoda-shaped garden lanterns, as well as clusters of basket lights which hover above the head like illuminated balloons. To the left of the entrance is a tiny, tropical garden, presided over by an ancient temple bell which stands stately in a former front porch. Inside, seating ranges from oversized off-white futons to modern, industrial barstools, and rattan detailing softens up the lines of dark teak chairs laid out in cosy conversation groups. The black Corian bar is cold and smooth in contrast to the huge vase of scarlet ginger lilies behind, but the curved, custom-cut edge gives a soft, organic line. The languid eyes of a deep green Buddha carving overlooks the lounge, and sets the tone for the rest of the space.

The Ku De Ta dining rooms are a mixture of indoor and outdoor. Breezy terrace tables overlook the tiny garden with its carved sandstone mural of ancient farmers and their oxen, transformed by Claudette into a trickling water feature, the details picked out in the subtle weathering and patina. Inside, an air-conditioned, non-smoking room is home to a collection of art and artifacts which are housed in glass alcoves so their beauty can be appreciated from both spaces. There is a set of three handmade, Lanna red wooden vases which resemble giant, ripe cocoa pods. A row of golden Buddhist monks with begging bowls whose intelligent faces patiently watch the terrace diners. A pair of delicately carved puppets poses in an elegant dance in another alcove, while gnarled chunks of bleached monkey wood make intriguing organic sculptures.

Indeed, the collection provides as much inspiration for the eyes as the sumptuous Asian menu offers the palate.

The entire Ku De Ta interior is brought to life by the innovative lighting design created by Sea Island Home & Garden interiors expert and freelance photographer Karen Sylvester. From eyeball fixtures in the cathedral ceilings to wall-washers highlighting the art pieces, Sylvester says the lighting design was dictated by the magnificent accessories the McShanes gathered on their travels. Once a place was found for each piece, it was Sylvester’s mission to show off the collection at its best. Some of the pieces became part of the lighting design—like the eight-foot tree trunk floor-lamps designed by Claudette, stripped, bleached and backlit with a soft golden glow. Claudette also shopped at Bangkok’s astonishing Chatuchak weekend market for huge silk lanterns in the restaurant’s signature accent colour, Lanna red, inspired by the rich, royal tones of Thailand’s ancient northern kingdoms. The lanterns hang in clusters from the tallest peaks of the cathedral ceiling in the entrance lounge, a striking visual welcome for the arriving dinner guest.

Thai design is about attention to detail and the McShanes have not spared a single one. A parade of interesting crockery and flatware is inspired by the food itself; hammered pewter napkin rings look like jewellery and glasses are fullblown and luxuriant to hold. The conversation at dinner repeatedly returns to the sheer beauty of the surroundings, even for the legions of loyal locals that have made Ku De Ta their upscale lime for the past year. A visit to the restroom reveals that the attention to design detail carries right through; jade green, heavy glass bowls float on black Corian pedestals and a basket of crisply-laundered napkins means there’s not a tissue or hand-blower to be seen. Inside each cubicle there is even a naughty surprise, perhaps a nod to Thailand’s still seedy underbelly, but I won’t spoil!

Of course, no restaurant is a success based on interior design alone, so Brendan and Claudette conducted an extensive search in Thailand, Europe and the UK to find a chef they felt could do justice to the exquisite décor and ambiance. When Ku De Ta opened in April 2006, the lucky foodies of St Lucia were introduced to the authentic flavours of Thailand as interpreted by Bangkok native Ratchatrep Wacharapong, locally known as Chris, and an avid fanbase was established.

As a dream come true, Ku De Ta is an breathtaking achievement. The blood, sweat and tears of two devoted Asiaphiles have produced an Oriental treasure in St Lucia’s Rodney Bay Village. Its style combines Buddhist temple with modern spa tranquillity, spiced up with surprising design details from the sophisticated eye of Claudette McShane. Just as the signature Thai dishes burst onto the tongue with layers of flavour and nuances of heat, the surroundings supply the returning customer with a menu of visual delicacies, making Ku De Ta unique in its ability to satisfy both body and soul.

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